BUYING GUIDE: COLORED GEMSTONE ENGAGEMENT RINGS

The Empress Josephine toi et moi (“you and me”) engagement ring features a 1 carat (ct) pear shaped sapphire and diamond mounted in 18K gold. Photo: PATRICK KOVARIK. Courtesy: AFP/Getty Images

Why the trend in colored gemstone engagement rings

Adorning the fingertips of royals and trendsetters alike, vibrant gemstone engagement rings herald a revival of a timeless trend – injecting bursts of color and character into the traditional realm of diamond solitaires. While some connoisseurs opt for the allure of pink, yellow, or blue diamonds, others delve into the kaleidoscopic world of colored gemstones for their distinctive hue. Rewind to the opulent era of 1796, where Napoleon Bonaparte bestowed upon his beloved Joséphine a captivating sapphire and diamond toi et moi ring, symbolizing their union. Fast forward to modern-day royalty, where the illustrious Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, graces her finger with a legendary gemstone engagement ring, once treasured by Princess Diana herself. This magnificent creation features a resplendent 12-carat sapphire, embraced by a halo of dazzling diamonds, etching its place in history as an epitome of regal elegance.

A 2.73 ct oval sapphire engagement ring accented by 0.56 carats of diamonds.

Indulge in the splendor reminiscent of Kate Middleton’s iconic engagement ring with this exquisite counterpart. A radiant 2.73-carat oval sapphire takes center stage, enhanced by a delicate embrace of 0.56 carats of shimmering diamonds. Courtesy of Omi Privé, this masterpiece exudes timeless elegance and sophistication.

Following in the footsteps of her illustrious cousin-in-law, Princess Eugenie, daughter of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson, dazzles with her own unique choice of an engagement ring. Opting for a subtly orangy-pink padparadscha sapphire, encircled by a halo of round brilliant-cut diamonds, Princess Eugenie pays homage to her family’s regal heritage. Resonating with echoes of her mother, the Duchess of York’s own engagement ring – a captivating ruby ensconced within a radiant halo of diamonds – Princess Eugenie’s choice reflects both tradition and individuality in equal measure.

A 2.02 ct padparadscha sapphire and diamond ring.

The extraordinary allure of Princess Eugenie’s engagement ring with this captivating masterpiece. A mesmerizing 2.02-carat padparadscha sapphire takes center stage, surrounded by a halo of dazzling diamonds. Courtesy of Omi Privé, this ring exudes an air of sophistication and charm, sure to captivate the discerning eye.

In the glamorous realm of celebrities, actress Jenny McCarthy adorns her finger with a breathtaking 10-carat yellow sapphire engagement ring, elegantly framed by a cascade of shimmering diamonds. Ashlee Simpson’s vintage-inspired ring boasts a magnificent marquise diamond enveloped by exquisite calibré-cut rubies, evoking a sense of timeless romance. Meanwhile, Elizabeth Hurley exudes effortless elegance with a resplendent 9-carat blue sapphire, flanked by two exquisite trilliant-cut diamonds in a classic yet contemporary design.

For these luminaries of style and sophistication – and countless other discerning brides – the incorporation of colored gemstones into their engagement rings offers a kaleidoscope of possibilities to showcase their unique sense of style and individuality. It’s a trend that seamlessly marries timeless elegance with modern flair, creating an enduring symbol of love and commitment.

What’s great about colored gemstone engagement rings

Embark on a journey of enchantment with colored gemstone engagement rings, where every hue tells a story of elegance and allure. Delve into a kaleidoscope of colors, from the fiery reds of rubies to the serene blues of sapphires, and discover the vibrant greens of tsavorite garnets and the captivating splendor of spinels. With a gemstone for every shade of the rainbow, the possibilities are endless.

Beyond their breathtaking beauty, colored gemstones imbue engagement rings with profound meaning and significance. Incorporating birthstones, either individually or alongside dazzling diamonds, adds a personal touch, symbolizing the unique bond between you and your partner. Each gemstone also carries its own historic symbolism, offering a wealth of inspiration. For instance, the timeless sapphire has long been associated with sincerity, truth, and unwavering faithfulness.

Furthermore, colored gemstones provide a canvas for expressing clandestine messages and sentiments. Building on the Victorian tradition of acrostic jewelry, where gemstones are arranged to spell out meaningful words or phrases using their initials, you can weave hidden narratives into your engagement ring. Whether conveying birthdays, intimate messages, or shared secrets, each gem becomes a vessel of cherished memories and shared devotion.

A Victorian era acrostic ring featuring ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond.

Behold, a magnificent Victorian masterpiece hailing from the opulent realms of England, crafted during the illustrious Victorian era (1837–1901). Adorned with an enchanting array of gemstones, this exquisite ring unveils a hidden message of affection, spelling out the word “regard” in a timeless tribute to love. From the radiant glow of rubies to the verdant allure of emeralds, each gemstone whispers tales of devotion and admiration.

Moreover, colored gemstones offer a splendid opportunity to elevate the grandeur of your engagement ring without breaking the bank. While rubies and sapphires reign supreme, exploring lesser-known gemstones reveals a treasure trove of exquisite options, often at a fraction of the cost. Delight in the blush hues of pink beryl morganite, the dazzling brilliance of spinel and tourmaline in a myriad of captivating colors, or the vibrant allure of green, red, or orange garnets. With colored gemstones, the possibilities are as boundless as your love, offering a luxurious touch at an accessible price point.

A gemstone engagement ring featuring a spessartine garnet center stone cut by John Dyer, pink tourmaline side stones and diamond melee.

For the bride-to-be enchanted by the vibrant hues of orange and pink, behold a masterpiece crafted to captivate the senses. This exquisite ring, a creation of unparalleled beauty, boasts a mesmerizing spessartine garnet as its centerpiece, expertly cut by the skilled hands of John Dyer. Flanked by delicate pink tourmaline side stones and adorned with a sprinkle of diamond melee, it exudes a sense of elegance and sophistication that is simply unparalleled. With its radiant colors and exquisite craftsmanship, this ring from John Dyer & Co. is destined to enchant and delight, a true embodiment of timeless romance and refined taste.

A 7.07 carat Art Deco style morganite cocktail set in18K white gold with a double-halo of diamonds.

In the realm of engagement rings, morganite emerges as a captivating choice for the discerning bride-to-be. With its alluring shades ranging from delicate pastel pink to hints of purple, yellow, or orange, morganite exudes a timeless elegance reminiscent of the most coveted pink diamonds. This 7.07 carat morganite, a stunning specimen of unparalleled beauty, captures the essence of romance in its very hue. While bearing a striking resemblance to its diamond counterpart, morganite offers a more accessible option, allowing you to indulge in luxury without compromise. Similarly, blue zircon presents an enchanting alternative to blue diamonds, boasting a brilliance that rivals even the most precious gemstones. With morganite and blue zircon, you can adorn your finger with elegance and sophistication, making a statement that is both captivating and affordable.

A 6.74 ct cushion cut zircon ring accented with trilliant cut tsavorite garnet side stones and round brilliant cut diamonds set in 18K white gold.

Indulge in the allure of azure with this captivating 6.74 carat cushion-cut zircon ring, a masterpiece exquisitely adorned with trilliant-cut tsavorite garnet side stones and round brilliant-cut diamonds, all set in 18K white gold. Courtesy of Omi Privé, this opulent creation transcends the ordinary, capturing the essence of sophistication and luxury in its every facet.

Spinel and tourmaline, two gems of unparalleled beauty, offer a kaleidoscope of color options while providing exceptional value. With hues reminiscent of the finest rubies or sapphires, these gems bestow a touch of extravagance at a fraction of the cost. Picture a resplendent 5-carat red tourmaline, known as rubellite, boasting a brilliance that rivals its ruby counterpart, yet available at a mere fraction of the price.

Adding to the allure is the magnificent tsavorite garnet, a verdant green gemstone that rivals the emerald in brilliance and durability, yet offers a more accessible option for those seeking elegance and sophistication. With tsavorite garnet, you can revel in the splendor of luxury without compromise.

A 2.86 ct tsavorite ring with diamond accents, set in platinum.

Embrace sophistication with a twist of resilience in this 2.86 carat tsavorite ring, elegantly adorned with diamond accents, a testament to enduring beauty and durability. Captured through the lens of Emily Lane/GIA and presented with the gracious courtesy of Sara and Bret Keller, this remarkable creation exudes an aura of timeless elegance, standing as a beacon of refined taste and unwavering strength.

With a myriad of colored gemstones to choose from, your quest lies in discovering the one that ignites your passion, while ensuring its resilience for everyday wear.

Durability and colored gemstone engagement rings

Durability is paramount when selecting a gemstone for your engagement ring. Each gem possesses unique properties, dictating its ability to withstand the rigors of daily wear and exposure to various elements. From the subtle impacts of daily activities to the challenges posed by environmental factors such as heat, light, and chemicals, your chosen gem must exhibit resilience in the face of adversity.

Considering these factors, it’s essential to evaluate the gemstone’s hardness, toughness, and stability. Gems like diamonds, sapphires, and rubies, renowned for their exceptional hardness, offer superior resistance to scratches and abrasions, ensuring longevity in everyday wear. On the other hand, gems like opals and pearls, while exuding captivating beauty, require delicate handling due to their comparatively softer nature.

By understanding the distinct characteristics of each gemstone, you can make an informed decision, selecting a gem that not only dazzles with its allure but also endures the test of time with grace and resilience.

The Mohs scale ranks gem and mineral hardness in a range from 1 (least hard – talc) to 10 (hardest of all – diamond).

Introduced in the early 19th century, the Mohs scale serves as a benchmark for assessing gem and mineral hardness, ranging from 1 (least hard – talc) to 10 (hardest of all – diamond). This scale provides invaluable insight into a gem’s ability to withstand abrasions and scratches, crucial factors in determining its suitability for daily wear.

Gems like ruby and sapphire, boasting a formidable hardness rating of 9, exhibit exceptional resilience against wear and tear, making them ideal choices for engagement rings destined for a lifetime of activity. While spinel, morganite, zircon, and tsavorite garnet and tourmaline may not rank as high on the Mohs scale, with ratings ranging from 7 to 8, they still offer considerable durability suitable for everyday wear, provided they’re treated with care and caution (no adventurous rock climbing, please!).

Two Montana sapphires weighing a total of 1.19 carats bookend a 2.05 ct round brilliant diamond.

The durability of a gemstone encompasses not only its hardness but also its toughness and stability. Toughness measures a gem’s resistance to breakage, chipping, or cracking, determined by the strength of its atomic bonds. For instance, while opal and tanzanite boast exquisite beauty, their relatively low toughness makes them better suited for occasional wear rather than daily adornment.

Stability, on the other hand, evaluates a gemstone’s ability to withstand environmental factors such as chemicals, light, and fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Opals, for example, are prone to cracking or crazing in low humidity or with exposure to heat, while gems like citrine, amethyst, and topaz may undergo color changes when exposed to prolonged sunlight. Organic gems such as pearls, coral, and amber are particularly sensitive to household chemicals and should be handled with care to preserve their natural allure.

A 9.30 carat tanzanite center stone is surrounded by 1.18 carats of diamonds in this ring.

While tanzanite exudes captivating beauty, its ranking of 6 to 7 on the Mohs scale coupled with its fair-to-poor toughness suggests it’s better suited for special occasions rather than daily wear. Treatments to enhance the color and clarity of colored gemstones are commonplace in the industry, aiming to accentuate their natural allure. However, it’s crucial to recognize that certain treatments may compromise the gem’s stability, necessitating extra care. For instance, while emerald’s Mohs scale rating of 7.5–8 signifies respectable hardness, its fragility often prompts treatments like oiling or resin application to enhance clarity. Yet, such treatments can mask fractures, making the stone susceptible to breakage upon impact. For those seeking a resilient green gemstone for everyday wear, tsavorite garnet emerges as a compelling alternative, boasting durability and rarity, while maintaining its natural charm sans extensive treatments.

A halo of diamonds creates contrast with the emerald and helps protect this popular but fragile stone. Two yellow diamonds add more color and drama to the ring.

The striking juxtaposition of a diamond halo surrounding the emerald not only enhances its allure but also serves a practical purpose by safeguarding this cherished yet delicate gem. Further elevating the drama and vibrancy of the design, two yellow diamonds contribute a captivating burst of color, adding depth and sophistication to the ring’s overall aesthetic. Courtesy: Omi Privé.

Other qualities to look for in colored gemstone engagement rings

In the realm of colored gemstones, color reigns supreme, much like the brilliance of colorless diamonds. Evaluating the quality of a colored gem involves assessing the 4Cs: color, clarity, cut, and carat weight. However, color takes precedence above all else. The distinction between gems like pink sapphire and ruby, or green beryl and emerald, often hinges solely on their color. While clarity holds importance, there’s no universally recognized grading system for colored gems, and cut can vary widely from one stone to another. The primary aim is typically to maximize the gem’s size and color, or, in the case of fantasy cuts, to craft a masterpiece of artistic expression.

A 9.05 ct bi-colored tourmaline ring set in 14K white gold features yellow diamonds, tsavorites and rubellites.

Crafted to endure the sands of time, behold this magnificent 9.05 ct bi-colored tourmaline ring, a masterpiece set in 14K white gold, adorned with yellow diamonds, tsavorites, and rubellites. A tribute to geological wonders, this creation stands as a testament to eternal beauty. While durability remains paramount, there are additional facets to consider when evaluating the quality of colored gemstones.

Many gems exhibit multiple hues, a feature cherished in bi-colored tourmalines, offering a touch of individuality for the discerning bride-to-be seeking a truly distinctive engagement ring. However, in gems like blue sapphire, colorless zones upon close inspection may diminish the gem’s overall allure. Moreover, while high clarity is prized, a few discernible inclusions in inconspicuous areas, such as the culet, authenticate the gem’s natural origin and untreated state.

Colored gemstones present captivating optical phenomena absent in diamonds, including chatoyancy (the mesmerizing cat’s-eye effect) and asterism (the celestial star). These enchanting phenomena arise from light reflecting off dense mineral inclusions in cabochon-cut gems, opening doors to captivating design possibilities for a colored gemstone engagement ring.

A 7.57 ct cat’s-eye chrysoberyl ring surrounded by a halo of round brilliant cut diamonds.

This 7.57 ct cat’s-eye chrysoberyl captures the essence of unity, symbolizing the harmonious union of two souls. Encircled by a dazzling halo of round brilliant cut diamonds, this gem epitomizes strength and sentiment, making it the quintessential choice for an engagement ring.

Beyond the gem’s intrinsic beauty, the significance of its origin cannot be overlooked. For certain gems like ruby and sapphire, the country of origin holds considerable sway over its value. A ruby hailing from Myanmar, known as “Burmese” ruby, commands a premium compared to its counterparts from locales like Mozambique. Likewise, sapphires originating from Kashmir fetch a premium due to their distinctive “cornflower blue” hue and exceptional rarity, with no significant production from this region in over a century.

Who owned it before
Historical provenance adds an undeniable allure to colored gemstone engagement rings, often elevating their value significantly. Take, for instance, the iconic Empress Josephine sapphire and diamond engagement ring, steeped in history and romance. When this illustrious piece graced the auction block in 2013, its estimated worth rested largely on the intrinsic value of its gems, pegged at $20,000. However, the winning bid soared to over $1 million, a testament to the profound premium placed on its storied connection to Napoleon Bonaparte and his beloved first bride. Such tales of love and legacy imbue these treasures with an unparalleled mystique and worth.

A ring of Burmese rubies encircles an Old European cut diamond in this Art Deco–era ring.

In the realm of colored gemstone engagement rings, quality and rarity reign supreme, dictating their esteemed value. Much like the allure of diamonds, top-tier colored gems are a scarcity, commanding a premium among discerning buyers. To navigate this world of unparalleled beauty and significance, it behooves one to delve deep into the intricacies of gemstone quality and rarity. Comparison shopping becomes an art form, allowing connoisseurs to discern the subtle nuances that elevate a gemstone to extraordinary heights. Embark on this journey armed with knowledge, exploring the comprehensive resources offered by esteemed institutions such as GIA’s Gem Encyclopedia. Here, a treasure trove of insights awaits, unveiling the captivating characteristics, durability, treatments, and more, of the most coveted gems adorning the realm of haute joaillerie.

Caring for colored gemstone engagement rings

Once your prized colored gemstone engagement ring graces your finger, preserving its radiance becomes paramount. Proper care entails tailored cleaning methods, tailored to the unique properties of your chosen gemstone and its treatment status. Opt for gentle cleaning solutions, meticulously crafted for delicate gems, or simply rely on a blend of warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. Exercise caution with ultrasonic cleaners and generic cleaning solutions, particularly if the durability of your gem remains uncertain. Protecting your precious symbol of love ensures its enduring brilliance for generations to come.

A 5.11 ct yellow sapphire engagement ring, surrounded by 128 round diamonds weighing 0.75 carats.

For this magnificent 5.11 ct yellow sapphire engagement ring, adorned with 128 round diamonds totaling 0.75 carats, the gentle touch of warm, soapy water is the epitome of care. Safeguard its brilliance with this simple yet effective cleaning ritual, ensuring its enduring radiance for generations to come. Courtesy: Omi Privé

Setting styles for colored gemstone engagement rings

Engagement ring settings aren’t merely functional; they’re an artful expression of elegance and practicality. Bezels, halos, and other protective settings serve as guardians, ensuring the safety of precious gems while enhancing their allure. These settings are more than just safeguards; they’re vital components that define a ring’s aesthetic and character.

Take, for instance, the timeless allure of a three-stone engagement ring. Symbolizing yesterday, today, and tomorrow, this style embodies eternal love. Its enduring popularity traces back centuries, with origins dating to at least the 17th century. During the Art Deco era, the addition of vibrant rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and onyx against a backdrop of diamonds and platinum created a striking harmony of colors, evoking unparalleled sophistication and charm.

Three-stone gemstone engagement ring featuring two rubies and a round brilliant diamond.

For a captivating engagement ring that ignites passion, draw inspiration from this stunning three-stone design. Flaunting two vibrant rubies, each measuring 1.41 and 1.37 carats, flanking a mesmerizing 1.39-carat round brilliant diamond, this ring promises to enrapture every gaze. Courtesy: 1stdibs.com

Another enchanting option is the halo setting, a timeless favorite renowned for its elegance and allure. Adorning the center stone with a shimmering circle of gems, halo settings exude opulence and magnificence. This style has surged in popularity in recent years, as it not only enhances the brilliance of the center stone but also creates the illusion of a larger gem. Ideal for colored gemstones, halo settings showcase the center stone’s vibrant hue while encircling it with a dazzling array of diamonds or colored gems, adding sparkle, contrast, and a touch of protection to the design.

A gemstone engagement ring featuring a 2.57 ct spinel encircled by 0.20 carats of round diamonds.

Seeking further evidence of the captivating allure colored gemstones bestow upon engagement rings? Feast your eyes on this breathtaking masterpiece, boasting a resplendent 2.57-carat spinel ensconced within a halo of 0.20 carats of round diamonds. Courtesy: Omi Privé

For those yearning for a ring that exudes uniqueness and vibrancy, the bypass ring offers a compelling choice. Departing from conventional designs, the bypass ring features a band that elegantly overlaps, diverging from the traditional circular form. Popularized during the Victorian era, these rings epitomize romance, embodying the timeless sentiment of “you and me” with unmatched charm and elegance.

A Victorian-era diamond and sapphire bypass ring.

This Victorian-era bypass ring, adorned with a harmonious combination of diamond and sapphire, epitomizes delicate elegance. Courtesy: Treasurly by Dima

Today, jewelry designers are infusing contemporary flair into traditional ring styles such as three-stone, halo, and bypass rings, enriching them with the vibrant hues of colored gemstones. These modern renditions seamlessly blend the timeless allure of the past with the dynamic spirit of the present, resulting in pieces that radiate with color and vitality. As you explore the landscape of fine jewelry, you’ll encounter a myriad of imaginative interpretations that captivate the senses and ignite the imagination.

Blue sapphires surround a rose cut diamond in this modern ring with a design borrowed from the Victorian era.

This modern ring pays homage to the Victorian era with a captivating twist. Encircled by blue sapphires, a radiant rose-cut diamond takes center stage, embodying the essence of “something old” and “something new.” With its design borrowed from history and reimagined for contemporary tastes, this exquisite piece from Shelly Purdy Studio is a timeless symbol of love and tradition.

A pear shaped sapphire is surrounded by colorless diamonds and a second halo of sapphires.

With its striking design, this ring from Omi Privé is a masterpiece of contrast and elegance. At its heart, a pear-shaped sapphire commands attention, encircled by a halo of colorless diamonds and a second halo of vibrant sapphires. As these precious gems cascade down the shank of the ring, they create a visual symphony of bold hues and sparkling brilliance. A true testament to exquisite craftsmanship, this stunning piece is sure to captivate and delight with its unparalleled beauty.

How to buy colored gemstone engagement rings

When it comes to buying colored gemstone engagement rings, it’s essential to seek expertise from specialized jewelers like Iskenderian. Their knowledge and experience in dealing with colored gemstones ensure that you’ll find the perfect ring to symbolize your love. Iskenderian offers a curated selection of exquisite colored gemstone rings, each meticulously crafted to perfection. Whether you’re drawn to the fiery allure of rubies, the serene beauty of sapphires, or the captivating charm of emeralds, Iskenderian’s expert team will guide you through the process, helping you choose a ring that reflects your unique style and personality. With Iskenderian, buying a colored gemstone engagement ring becomes a memorable and fulfilling experience, culminating in the discovery of a timeless symbol of your love and commitment.

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